A visual assessment to determine Fitzpatrick isn’t enough.  Knowing your client’s ancestry will help you determine how to best serve your client and help achieve her skin health goals without setbacks.
One of the biggest concerns with darker and blended skin tones is hyperpigmentation from sun exposure and PIH (Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation).  Imagine doing a service on a client with the intention of helping minimize hyperpigmentation only to have her return with more dark spots and patches than she had prior to treatment.  This mistake can cost you not only a client but your reputation.  The PIH is treatable, but can take 3-6 months or more to resolve.  That’s a long time to have an unhappy client.
Medical History –  We don’t need to know everything, just what’s important for the treatments performed at our business.  Review the Medical History with the client and fill in anything left blank or needing clarification such as, emergency contact, allergies, medications & ancestry.
Ancestry? Yes, a client may have light skin but have parents or grandparents with darker skin tones.  This is important for you to know.
Ask: “Do you get brown spots or patches after healing from a breakout or injury to the skin?”  Yes = Higher risk for PIH.  No = Low risk for PIH.
If yes, what should you do?  Educate your client and have her prep her skin at home for several weeks prior to performing treatments such as dermaplaning, microdermabrasion, chemical peels, laser treatments or waxing.  A Peel Prep Kit should contain a Cleanser, Melanin Suppressant Serum, Moisturizer & SPF.
The First Treatment should be light so use lower settings on your microdermabrasion machine or fewer strokes with less pressure when dermaplaning.  Chemical peels will have a higher pH and lower percentage. A test patch is always recommended for all services, including waxing since wax temperatures vary.
Post Treatment: Immediately after treatment apply melanin suppressant serum (or mask) and anti-inflammatory ointment or cream along with SPF.  Send the client home with a  Post Peel Kit.  Most of your professional companies have these available in Travel Size so it’s easy to include with the price of a service or package.  Recommended use 7-10 days post-treatment.
Question: “My client has dark skin and wants dermaplaning today.  She’s not currently using products to control melanin production.  Can I treat her?”
Answer: “If she has experienced PIH then you‘ll need to educate her on the risks of not pre-treating her skin.  You can offer her a facial using a gentle enzyme and brightening mask.  Send her home with a set of travel size products to prep with and schedule her in a week or two for dermaplaning.
Remember, you are the professional so it’s up to you to do what is best for your client’s skin.  It will pay off in the long term.
Recommended Products: Pre & Post Exfoliating Kit & Brightening Mask from Global Skin Solutions.  www.globalskin-solutions.com
Call us if you have any questions at 602-380-8525.
Click HERE for a free download of our Medical History & Consent Forms.

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