Hands wearing blue latex gloves use a #10 blade to Dermaplane the temple of another person. Old skin and vellus hair is visible on the blade.

Go with the grow or no?

Should dermaplaning be done in the direction of the hair growth?
PastedGraphic 1 dermaplaning

Dermaplaning and waxing are the only procedures that are performed with the tool (or wax stick) held parallel to the skin.

Most devices are perpendicular to the skin. Consider microdermabrasion, HydraFacial, micro-needling, micro-channeling, tweezers, mask brushes – you get the idea. See photo. When the device is held perpendicular to the skin, the direction or patterning can be determined by the practitioner.

Dermaplaning with or against hair growth?

This is why dermaplaning is more challenging – because positioning of the tension hand and the dermaplaning hand and tool either work or they don’t. If they don’t work – the handle bumps into the nose, ear, eye, etc.

Direction of hair growth is a consideration when waxing. So that’s where this misconception comes from. However, direction of hair growth is not a factor when dermaplaning. Vellus hair is so fine that it can be removed from any direction. And while removing vellus hair is a bonus, it is not the goal of dermaplaning. The directions we show you in our dermaplaning certification courses are for the best results for your client’s treatment AND what is most ergonomic for you, the esthetician.

We cover this in the 8-Sections of the Face portion of our Certification Course. Bracing hand, blading hand, predictable movement flow, ergonomic alignment, and client comfort are the focus for a safe, effective, and enjoyable treatment.

Learn more by reading our other blogs posts. Visit us at www.dermaplanepro.org to view our free dermaplaning webinars or sign up for dermaplaning courses.
Happy Dermaplaning!

Rikki Kusy
Founder & CEO
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Comments (11)

  1. Kristin Olis
    3 years ago

    Hi, I was wondering if you have accident report forms for if a client was to get nicked or cut.

  2. Ofelia Scroggs
    3 years ago

    I know Board of cosmetology is about to allow cosmetologist to do derma planning in California starting in January, I would love to be able to give this service to my clients. Could you tell me how to enroll to one of your classes for derma planing. I live in San Diego area is there any classes in southern California available?

    • Morgan Picoy
      3 years ago

      We have trainers in Riverside, Woodland Hills, and San Francisco. Please email training@dermaplanepro.com for more information.

  3. Vanesa Rodriguez
    2 years ago

    i feel like videos would be best in order to learn these steps. the font of this writting makes it difficult to read beacseu is so small

  4. Carol Tarantino
    2 years ago

    I agree about the font! It’s too small and difficult to read. It’s on all the paperwork and products…

  5. Rahnie Smith
    2 years ago

    Is there somewhere we can re-watch the whole dermaplane treatment after we complete the course? I need to watch it at least 10 more times so it becomes 2nd nature for me.

  6. Marisol Martinez
    2 years ago

    Hi, I downloaded the Technical Support Q & A – Webinar Review sheet but I can’t find the webinar to follow. Do you know where I can find it? Thank you.

  7. Tonya Warren
    1 month ago

    I am DermaplanePro certified and would like information on becoming an instructor, thank you.

    -Tonya W.

    • Michelle McLemore
      1 month ago

      Hi Tonya! Thank you for wanting to learn more about how to become a DermaplanePro trainer. We will reach out to you directly to continue the conversation.

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