Go with the grow or no?
Dermaplaning should be done in the direction of hair growth.
Dermaplaning and waxing are the only procedures that are performed with the tool (or wax stick) held parallel to the skin.
Most devices are perpendicular to the skin. Consider microdermabrasion, HydraFacial, micro-needling, micro-channeling, tweezers, mask brushes – you get the idea. See photo. When the device is held perpendicular to the skin, the direction or patterning can be determined by the practitioner.
Dermaplaning with or against hair growth?
This is why dermaplaning is more challenging – because positioning of the tension hand and the dermaplaning hand and tool either work or they don’t. If they don’t work – the handle bumps into the nose, ear, eye, etc.
Direction of hair growth is a consideration when waxing. So that’s where this misconception comes from. However, direction of hair growth is not a factor when dermaplaning. Vellus hair is so fine that it can be removed from any direction. And while removing vellus hair is a bonus, it is not the goal of dermaplaning. The directions we show you in our dermaplaning certification courses are for the best results for your client’s treatment AND what is most ergonomic for you, the esthetician.
We cover this in the 8-Sections of the Face portion of our Certification Course. Bracing hand, blading hand, predictable movement flow, ergonomic alignment, and client comfort are the focus for a safe, effective, and enjoyable treatment.