a. I like to keep the blade low, almost parallel to the skin. It’s safer.
b. I angle it up a little, but not too much.
c. I think it’s at 45 degrees.
d. I’m not sure.
The most effective angle for dermaplaning is 45 degrees. You’ll get the best results when you hold the blade 45 degrees to the surface you’re working on. So you’ll need to adjust your angle to accommodate the varying contours of the face.
This angle can bring a “dull” blade back to life. The blade wasn’t dull – the angle was off.
Forty-five degrees is also the safest angle. It’s tempting to lay the blade flatter -more parallel- to the skin out of concern for nicking the client. The lower blade angle can catch the skin – especially when there is a lack of tension – and result in a nick.
We see quite a few aesthetician’s holding the blade at 90 degrees (vertical to the skin). This results in very little exfoliation while exponentially increasing the risk of injury. The skin will look ashy but the hair won’t come off and you’re really not getting exfoliation – you’re just scratching the skin.
A barber performs the straight razor shave at 30 degrees. Great for removing hair but 45 degrees is better for exfoliation and also hair removal.
Ready for a little Guided Discovery? (Sounds like Science class doesn’t it?)
On your thigh, start dermaplaning with the blade flat on the skin (zero degree angle). Slowly increase the angle as you slide back and forth until you get to 90 degrees (straight up and down). Watch how much vellus hair and skin cells you’re lifting off at each angle. You should see the best results at 45 degrees.
Keep practicing until you attain muscle memory at the 45 degree angle.
Sometimes change is good!
Rikki Kusy, CEO
August 5, 2015 (edited)
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