Dermaplaning Up? or Down?
With or against the direction of hair growth.


Which is it?

Both. But also sideways and diagonal.

With or against the direction of hair growth?
That’s important for waxing but surprisingly it’s not important when dermaplaning.


The focus of dermaplaning is exfoliation. By focusing on which way the hair is growing and safely positioning the blade at the same time – you’ll get frustrated fast.

The position of the handle in relation to the eyes, nose, ears, etc. is important so you don’t run into them. The angle of the blade is always 45 degrees to the surface you’re working on.

Vellus hair is not terminal hair so there’s no risk of ingrown hair – as long as you stay in vellus hair and don’t transition into terminal hair.

Gravity pulls the face down. Facials lift it back up. So we want to focus on dermaplaning in upward and lateral directions as much as possible.

Our face map explains the sections and angles. We only dermaplane down in 2 areas. Can you guess where they are?

Outer corners eyes
Upper 1/2 of the nose
Chin to the lower lip line
Under the chin
Sides of the neck

Lower 1/2 of the nose
Upper lip to the columella

Under eye area
Top of cheekbones
Sides of nose
Jawline & chin
Contouring above the brows
Contouring the lips

Right-handed? Right cheek in front of ear
Left-handed? Left cheek in front of ear
Anywhere up and side doesn’t work.


Happy Dermaplaning.
Rikki Kusy
Founder & CEO
DermaplanePro, Inc.

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