Dermaplaning Up? or Down?
With or against the direction of hair growth.


Which is it?

Both. But also sideways and diagonal.

With or against the direction of hair growth?
That’s important for waxing but surprisingly it’s not important when dermaplaning.


The focus of dermaplaning is exfoliation. By focusing on which way the hair is growing and safely positioning the blade at the same time – you’ll get frustrated fast.

The position of the handle in relation to the eyes, nose, ears, etc. is important so you don’t run into them. The angle of the blade is always 45 degrees to the surface you’re working on.

Vellus hair is not terminal hair so there’s no risk of ingrown hair – as long as you stay in vellus hair and don’t transition into terminal hair.

Gravity pulls the face down. Facials lift it back up. So we want to focus on dermaplaning in upward and lateral directions as much as possible.

Our face map explains the sections and angles. We only dermaplane down in 2 areas. Can you guess where they are?

Outer corners eyes
Upper 1/2 of the nose
Chin to the lower lip line
Under the chin
Sides of the neck

Lower 1/2 of the nose
Upper lip to the columella

Under eye area
Top of cheekbones
Sides of nose
Jawline & chin
Contouring above the brows
Contouring the lips

Right-handed? Right cheek in front of ear
Left-handed? Left cheek in front of ear
Anywhere up and side doesn’t work.


Happy Dermaplaning.
Rikki Kusy
Founder & CEO
DermaplanePro, Inc.

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Comments (6)

  1. Valerie Dunne
    2 years ago

    I have a hard time around chin and left cheek. I’m right handed

  2. Ivana glow medical spa
    2 years ago

    I’ve been dermaplaning for 25 years and I was thought by Cosmedux back then in Taxes. The best training ever. Today it’s different and not effective as mine is. I’m glad I learned it differently and extremely effective. What we learned then is skin deep Dermaplane. Non of the estheticians even know and I have seen so many not doing this nearby properly. Starting even from preparation of the skin prior to the procedure. I’m thankful … my #1 service at my MedSpa with chemical Peel. No one can achieve what we can. Brand of Chemical peel also important. Not just any works. Doesn’t work that way., good luck!!

  3. Yolanda Peña Bustillo
    2 years ago

    Well said! Question, can you share the company you use or like the most for chemical peelings? I use PCA and I love their peels. Thank you

  4. Dina LaFera
    2 years ago

    Which blade do you prefer and which chemical peels have you found in your experience to be the best ? Thank you

  5. Rmeek811
    1 year ago

    Would love to hear more bout what you use .If you could please share you wisdom and knowledge .

  6. April
    1 year ago

    I would love to know more of what you learned ?
    April ❤️

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