Pressure can make or break your client’s dermaplaning experience. We want our clients to be able to relax during their service, so it’s up to us to minimize discomfort. These Tips on Technique are designed to help you do this.
Pressure is applied in two ways: from the bracing hand (Compression – see Tips on Technique Part 2) and from the blade on the client’s skin Load (see diagram above) or Blade Pressure.
Bracing Pressure (Compression):
The bracing hand should be firm but light on the skin. You should have enough downward pressure to keep your fingers from sliding when holding the skin taut.
Blade Pressure (Load):
Medium pressure is best – but even that has a range of what works and what is comfortable and must be measured with each individual client.
You want to use the lightest pressure possible that provides the best results.
The weight of the handle and a gentle grip will allow you to feel connected with the client’s skin. Too light and the blade doesn’t stay in contact, so you won’t get very good results. It also doesn’t feel good to the client.
Too much pressure can cause irritation, inflammation and discomfort. More pressure does not yield a better result. It can lead to Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH), redness, swelling during the service and breakouts, rough texture and/or windburned appearance several days later.
“How do I know if I’m using the right amount of pressure?”
Bracing: The appearance of the skin will tell you a lot. If you’re bracing with too much pressure the skin won’t lay flat. You’ll see a “pillow” in between your fingers instead of a “fitted sheet”. Try lightening up the pressure and focus on holding the skin taut. Wearing gloves helps by providing better grip.
Blade: You’re using light/medium pressure while seeing vellus hair and skin cells early lift off the face. The skin isn’t blanching under the blade and it’s not red when you move to the next area.
Ask: “How is my pressure? You should feel a little scraping sensation but no discomfort.”
Listen to the answer and adjust accordingly.
Confused by all this? Well, then it’s time for science class!
Practice on your thigh adjusting the downward and tension aspect of pressure with your bracing hand wearing a glove for extra grip. See the “pillow” when you apply a lot of pressure and the “fitted sheet” when you lessen the pressure and focus more on tension.
Blade lightly on the skin and gradually increase pressure until there is discomfort. This will help you find an effective light/medium pressure.
Hope this helps.
Happy Dermaplaning!
Rikki
October 27, 2015 (edited)
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