Help! How do I prevent Post Procedure Breakouts, Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH), and/or Rough Chapped Skin following Dermaplaning?
1. Never dermaplane that client again.
2. Read, learn and apply these techniques
3. If you haven’t already, get certified!
4. Don’t worry about it. It just happens sometimes.
Two and three are the correct answers. So let’s continue.
What Caused It –
Inflammation is the primary cause of breakouts, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and chapped/rough windburned feeling skin following dermaplaning.
Friction. When you dermaplane using too much pressure, too high a blade angle (60-90 degrees) or blade too fast, you create friction. This creates heat and the combination causes inflammation.
The Result –
Acne prone clients = the skin may break out. This client has usually experienced break outs following waxing in the past.
Darker skin clients = post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) leaves dark spots or patches on the skin.
Clients new to exfoliation, already compromised skin, sensitive or reactive skin = chapped (rough) texture and a windburned sensation.
Pre & Post Care –
Review client sensitivities prior to treatment. Also, review her home care with her. (A BPO Cleanser used at home after dermaplaning will result in very unhappy skin!)
Gentle is key here. Melanin suppressants, topical anti-inflammatories and a light touch pre and post- treatment will all provide best results.
Put her on a post-peel protocol with some travel size products she can use at home for 4-5 days following treatment.
What Can Be Done –
If the client is calling several days after the service, invite her to come in (at no charge) for a 30 minute service. Assure her that you can help and she’ll feel better and see results quicker.
Your 30-Minute Treatment Protocol: Gentle Cleanser, DermaplanePro AHA/BHA Prep Solution (apply as you would a toner), NuPeel Natural Enzyme – apply about 2 tsp. to skin using gloved hands, allow to sit on the skin for 1 minute, lightly manage for only about 1 minute, enzyme will bead together dead skin cells, then gently remove with tepid towel or soft 4x4s. Apply Ageless Stem Cell & Peptide Mask to face (and neck if treating below the jawline). The mask is cooling but if client is feeling heat, cool the skin using cold gel packs or ice globes, etc. Apply appropriate serum: Acne: a redness reducing serum for acneic skin; PIH: melanin suppressant/skin brightening serum; Chapped skin: growth factor, peptide or stem cell serum. Finish the service with moisturizer, eye cream and SPF.
Client’s skin will feel soft and hydrated after this service. Breakouts will typically heal within a few days. PIH takes longer to resolve but can be accelerated with daily use of melanin suppressant/skin brightening serums, treatments and daily use of SPF. Chapped skin should feel better following the service.
Apply 1-2 pumps of Nourishe Dermaplaning Oil just before dermaplaning. Nourishe’s blend of calming oils and essential fatty acids will help prevent inflammation. Also, use the least amount of blade pressure possible to achieve the desired result. Keep your blade at a 45 degree angle to the surface you’re working on. Glide the blade in a slow, rhythmic motion. Cool and calm the skin before applying serum & finishing products using ice globes and anti-inflammatory LED light therapy in red for pigment or a combination of blue and red for acne.
Rikki Kusy, Founder & CEO
Updated August 4, 2017 (edited)
April 14, 2016 (original post)
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